Welcome to GN-Luftheber®
Do you also know the problem with jet lifter? Either you opt for the simple versions from the aquarium stores and experience a background noise that sooner or later gets on your nerves. Or, you take the Czech design, where the air through small holes in the foot of the jet lifter lowers the background noise, but after some time you notice that the flow decreases because the holes are clogged.
We have the solution!
GN-Jet lift® – The somewhat different Jet lift!
Plug it together, connect it and you’re done!
…and it runs, and runs, and …..
The construction principle
The principle of this jet lifter is similar to that of the Czech air lifter. Here too, the air is conveyed via a sieve principle. However, this sieve is created by the inner shape of the foot in interaction with the inserted tube.
The advantage: nothing clogs up so quickly here. Due to the steps that atomise the flow of air, a suction is created that carries away settling particles and thus this airlift has a service life that far exceeds that of a TLH.
Cleaning: If cleaning is actually necessary after a long time, it is quickly done: pull off the foot, clean briefly with a small bottle or hose brush, put back together, done. Even better is the use of vinegar essence or descaling agent, as this does not scratch the smooth, self-cleaning surface.
Rico J., an aquarist friend, sent me an excellent cleaning tip. I have tested this and it works perfectly -.
Simply place the drive, without disassembling it, in an ultrasonic cleaner. Fill it up with water and vinegar acid or citric acid and switch it on for a few minutes. It’s amazingly easy.
The best jet lift
available at the moment!
Six reasons to change:
There are two variations:
The riser-and-discharge pipe consists of one piece and is bent in a soft radius.
There is no turbulence with this variant and it therefore delivers a few percent more water.
Do you have questions about your filter?
Please use the contact form.
The riser and outlet pipes are separate and are joined together with a 90° angle fitting.
The plugged version is used wherever space conditions do not permit a smooth, bent pipe (e.g.: glued, narrow internal filter chambers). The airlift delivers slightly less water due to the vortex formation after the 90° angle.
|Tube diameter||Flow rate||Aquarium size|
|12 mm||130 liter per hour||up to 60 liter*|
|16 mm||230 liter per hour||up to 120 liter*|
|20 mm||460 liter per hour||up to 250 liter*|
|25 mm||900 liter per hour||up to 450 liter*|
* The tank size given is only a guideline. Well-planted tanks with little stocking may be larger, heavily stocked breeding tanks must be smaller than the specifications.
Firstly, it makes sense not to clean 100% of the filter in the tank at once and secondly, a backup (second filter) offers much greater security for the smooth operation of the aquarium.
For a 350 litre aquarium, for example, I would not use a 20 mm riser tube in a large internal filter, but two 16 mm risers distributed in two smaller corner filters. This makes it possible to clean the two filters two to three weeks apart and thus maintain as even a bacterial flora as possible.
The functioning and size of a mat filter are already excellently described on the internet and I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. The following external link contains a detailed description of how a mat filter works and how it is calculated. http://www.deters-ing.de/Filtertechnik/Mattenfilter.htm